Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Days 11 & 12: Safaris End at Olonana

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who have made their way across Kenya over the past two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!Olonana has been our last stop in Kenya for the past two days...and what a way to end our fantastic adventure! Olonana is found on the bank of the Mara River, prime location for viewing wildlife, and really feeling a part of Africa. Our experiences here have been a wonderful culmination of game viewing, engaging in the local culture, and resting in our luxurious surroundings. Olonana has a main lodge with cozy corners for reading, gathering, etc. and 14 luxurious permanent tents. Each tent has two queen beds, spacious bathrooms, and beautiful verandahs that are situtated behind each one.

We came with high hopes to see some hippos (one of the only animals yet to be seen on our excursion) who freqent the area, and we were not dissappointed! They have been spotted from our verandah around dusk, enjoying the Mara River.
The food has been divine. Everything is prepared on our schedule and planned around our wishes. The chefs will serve you al fresco on the Siria escarpment (on the western border of the park) overlooking the Mara plains or pack a picnic to take into the bush--whatever your request may be. The dining room off the main lodge looks over the Mara River and was an ideal spot for most of our meals. The lodge is so cozy, and has made for great conversation late into the night after dinner!

We have created such vivid memories here--particularly through our time spent among the Maasai people, seeing their day to day lives. The game drives have also been incredible. In addition to spotting the hippos, we have seen lion, elephant, giraffe, zebra, gazelles, and the hard to find rhino! Our hosts took us exploring today and yesterday in open-topped jeeps, so the visibility was unparalleled. Maasai Mara is 320 square kilometers and boasts of an ecosystem like no where else on the planet. It has been amazing to see it up close and personal!

Our Africa travel experience will come to a close tomorrow morning, and we are all sad to leave. We all are thankful for the time spent together and seeing this incredible part of our planet--it has been the experience of a lifetime!

To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North or one of our Africa travel specialists if you are interested in travel to Africa.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Day 10: Balloons and Nairobi

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who are making their way across Kenya over the next two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!

Some of us opted this morning for dawn balloon safari!
And, it was early! We watched as the balloon was inflated against the first rays of sunshine, and our pilot went through safty proceedures. Then it was time to climb aboard. Lifting off was unnerving, but magical. Once aloft, the balloon floated gently over the plains, giving a bird’s eye view of the game below as the sun crept slowly over the horizon. To have perspective on the area where we have spent the last couple of days was incredible--we have covered a lot of territory, but from up there, the vastness of the park was overwhelming.

The flight lasted around an hour, and then our pilot skilfully landed the balloon in a picturesque area. Nearby, breakfast was already being prepared with a glass of champagne to kickstart our morning now that the sun was up.

A few hours later, we caught our scheduled flight up to Nairobi where we had a car waiting for us for the day. We split up, some wanted to do some shopping while others of us headed straight to Africa's most famous hotel, the Norfolk, where we had a dayroom awaiting us. This hotel has recently celebrated its centenary with a full face-lift and was an ideal place to have a good scrub up and rest, maybe even a massage or sauna, after the safari. The Norfolk has been drawing characters to its hallowed doors since they first opened on Christmas Day 1904. In many respects, Nairobi grew up around the Norfolk, which occupies a central but quiet location opposite the National Theatre.

This evening we have continued to rest before the last leg of our journey, Olonana.
To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North if you are interested in traveling to Africa.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Days 8 & 9: Private Mobile Camp, Maasai Mara

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who are making their way across Kenya over the next two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!

A private charter plane picked us up after breakfast on Friday, and we flew south to Nanyuki, a district airstrip to connect with another flight in to the heart of the Maasai Mara.

The Maasai Mara reserve is one of Africa’s greatest parks, though it suffers a rather unfair reputation for being crowded. This certainly does not have to be the case as we have been in our very own exclusive camp “under canvas,” set up just for us in a private area of the Mara! In custom made safari vehicles we have been able to extensively explore this wildlife teeming region.

This is the ultimate and most exclusive form of safari and we certainly have not forfeited any comfort or luxury. Not to mention, luxury mobile camping is ecologically ideal as we leave no permanent fixtures and allow the environment to remain as pristine as we first found it.
Each tent is set with beautiful furniture and hand woven rugs in warm organic colors to blend in with the environment. Each tent has a personal tent steward, who makes sure that the Egyptian cotton sheets on our large, comfortable beds are freshly ironed and that a hot water bottle is slipped beneath our duvets if it is a chilly night. While we are at supper each night, he turns down the bed, slips in a hot water bottle and draws a mosquito net around the bed--incredible service here in the midst of the Mara!
Each of our tents has arched windows and an open front entrance that are made from a special netting to allow the breeze to pass through without letting in the occasional insect. On each verandah are two director’s chairs and a butler table, to enjoy a drink whilst reading, visiting, or watching animals winding their way across the savannah.
Our tent stewards are always at hand to make sure that our naval bucket showers are mixed to the perfect temperature for whatever time of day or night you choose to bathe. We each have a fully flushing, ceramic toilet and even running water!
The tent attendant also takes care of our laundry which has been delivered to our tents each evening, pressed beautifully by an old fashioned charcoal iron. He also takes any shoes that require cleaning in the evening and returns them with your morning tea or coffee.

The tents are solar powered so that we each have two bright bedside reading lamps, and an overhead light in the bedroom and bathroom that you can switch on or off by remote control from the comfort of the bed. We have eaten delicious meals each day! They like to play meal times and locations by ear to suit our schedule, and even prepared an incredible picnic for us to take into the bush one day. We have been so impressed with their ability to improvise and work around our needs and desires!

Regularly, meals are in a large candle lit mess tent. Also in this tent, there is a small reference library to browse and a variety of board games for those of us who love friendly competition.
The meals themselves are prepared with the very freshest ingredients and they have gladly taken dietary preferences into account for a few of us. The expert cooks take full advantage of vegetables and salads that are in season, and they are up before anyone else in camp to bake the finest breads and pastries for breakfast--an incredible smell to wake to.
House wines, house spirits, beers and soft drinks are also included, and they are able to source a number of cellar wines and spirits upon request. All are served in the finest crystal glass with a clink of ice - a welcome and unexpected luxury in the bush.
We have also been impressed at their involvement with as many community initiatives as possible. For example, Rwandan refugees hand craft the rugs and bed covers; a group of Samburu ladies make the leatherwork and beading for the furnishings; Maasai and Samburu warriors to keep watch in the camp at night; and they fully support the A&K Global Foundation.
The wildlife is abundant and the swaying grasslands ensure that animals are never out of sight. Elephants browse amongst the large herds of wildebeest and topi, eland and buffalo, Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelle. The plains offer a rich variety of food for the dominant predators: lion; leopard; hyena and cheetah. In the Mara River, hippos submerge to snort and grumble while crocodiles sunbathe, mouths agape, on the riverbanks. We have seen all this up close-there is nothing more awe inspiring than to see this amount of wildlife in person.
More to come soon...
To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North if you are interested in travel to Africa.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Days 6 & 7: Sarara Lodge, Mathews Mountains

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who are making their way across Kenya over the next two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!

From Tassia, a private charter plane literally swooped in to the bush to extract us up and northwards to Sarara, Namunyak. Particularly famous for leopard sightings and amazing cultural access, Namunyak (meaning 'a place of peace') is a vast tribal community wilderness area administered by the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust, under the guidance of Piers and Hilary Bastard. (Their son, Joffy, is our private guide for the adventure, and has done an incredible job!). This family orientated camp, north west of Mount Kenya, is situated just beyond Ol Donyo Sabache (Ol Lolokwe) below Warges peak in the fabled Mathews Mountains of Northern Kenya.

The Mathews Mountains are an extraordinary ecosystem that range from ancient, mist enshrouded forests at their summits to rugged desert bush land, and they are filled with game animals at their base. It is a paradise of a half million acres that we have had all to ourselves to enjoy!
The Sarara Lodge, named after the sand river that runs through the area, is particularly special in that it is the anchor of a community project that directly benefits the pastoral Samburu and the wildlife of the area. This is a truly un-spoilt wilderness conservation area with few roads. Part of the emphasis here is on rifle led walking excursions, with local Namunyak community game scouts as guides. We had an amazing opportunity to be able to interact with the local Samburu peoples. One of the great highlights was experiencing the “singing wells” of the Sarara sand river. These are wells that have been dug deep in to the sands to extract water by leather buckets for the tribal livestock herds. The warriors pass the water up from hand to hand in sequence and sing out ancient songs in praise of their cattle and of brave deeds--we were so thankful to be able to see this part of thier culture.

Sarara Lodge has six luxury sleeping tents, each with its own flush loo and open-air bush shower. In addition, there is also access to a private cottage with two super en suite rooms. Comfortable beds, quality bed linens, bathrobes, towels and other essentials are all provided, so we feel quite taken care of in the midst of this wilderness. There is a truly beautiful lounge and dining banda; a thatched area that not only adjoins a remarkable swimming pool created out of a natural rock formation but also overlooks a waterhole that is much frequented by elephants and other game animals. All this whilst enjoying spectacular views of the Mathews Mountains beyond.

Sarara is a dry season refuge for several hundred elephant and numbers increase further during the rainy seasons. For leopards, Sarara enjoys some of the most consistent and high quality leopard sightings in East Africa. Lions are residents and there are two separate groups of the endangered African Wild Dogs, with one pack numbering at least thirty individuals. Other wildlife species of particular interest include kudu, Grevy's zebra, striped hyena and gerenuk – all special desert adapted beasts. Up in the reaches of the tropical forests, there are many other species, including black and white colobus monkeys. We have seen much of the incredible wildlife on our excursions over the past two days. We have all had our favorite parts of the trip so far, but agree that Sarara is remarkable!

To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North if you are interested in traveling to Africa.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Days 4 & 5: Tassia Community Lodge, Northern Frontier

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who are making their way across Kenya over the next two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!

We left Laragai with a mixture of sadness and excitement--it was a great place to start the adventure. Here is another great picture of the view from the Lodge balcony on Sunday.

After lunch on Monday, we jumped in a in safari vehicle and headed back down to the Lewa Downs where we stopped at Lewa Wilderness for lunch and explored around the area. Lewa Wilderness is a great lodge that belongs to Will and Emma Craig.

From there we set off on an adventurous drive through the Northern Frontier district and various Maasai and Samburu communities and reached Tassia around mid afternoon. The drive was bumpy and dusty but fascinating and the couple of well spent hours gave us a real feel for the raw Africa of the pastoralists’ world.

Tassia is a delightful refuge in the heart of the Mukugodo tribal homeland.

Tassia gently sprawls over a rocky bluff with a magnificent view over the surrounding Northern Kenya plains and hills. It is a community venture that safeguards wildlife by allowing the Massai -through tourism- to reap the benefits of allowing wildlife free haven on their land rather than overgrazing the area with their large herds of livestock.

The six double bedrooms are open to the wild and have open bathrooms that overhang the drama of the bush below. The lounge/dining area overlooks a stunning swimming pool built into the rocks and then a small dam where elephants are frequent visitors. No trees were felled to create Tassia, which was built by the Massai entirely with local materials and keeping conservation and the environment foremost in mind. Incredible!

We have been hosted by both members of the community themselves and by Martin and Antonia Wheeler, a young couple who are dedicated both to the land and its people. This has been a once in a lifetime opportunity to have real access to a bona fide pastoralist community. Some of us went to visit one of their villages up in the hills--completely facinating! There is tons to learn from the local people and culture.

Our time in Tassia is almost complete, and we head north into the mountains in the morning...look for more to come in a day or two!


To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North if you are interested in traveling to Africa.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Days 2 & 3: Laragai House, Laikipia

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who are making their way across Kenya over the next two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!

After a hearty breakfast, we were driven to Wilson, Nairobi’s internal airport, to catch a 45 minute flight up to the Lewa Downs in the heart of the Laikipia region, a broad swathe of lava plateau that reaches the foothills of Mount Kenya on one side and in contrast, the wild deserts of the Northern Frontier District on the other. Outside of the Maasai Mara, Laikipia can boast the greatest wildlife experiences in Kenya.
After an incredible hour’s game drive up the eastern wall of the Laikipia escarpment, we arrived at our destination, the Laragai House. The Laragai House is the former private home of the legendary Cecil family. They have been heavily involved in Africa for many many years and Laragai House is very much a product of their love for the continent. Set on the edge of the Mokagodo escarpment, the house has the most spectacular views of both the Northern Frontier and Mount Kenya. This has been our base for the past two days. Our hosts, Sam and Flick, have surprised and delighted us at every turn. A better location or more suitable home does not exist--it is perfect and the surroundings are breathtaking! The house herself is large and luxurious with a magnificent heated infinity pool and pool house. This is ours exclusively!--So fun. There are spacious guest bedrooms, most with en suite bathrooms, a giant bath and super shower. The house also enjoys a decent tennis court.

The main focus of the house is a huge, baronial sitting room with great open, inglenook fireplaces at each end and a stunning deck that opens out over the escarpment. Beautifully decorated yet wonderfully cozy and comfortable, it has been a fabulous place to kick back and relax. It is filled wtih treasures from local tribes and artists. There is a games and television room (though we have been too excited about the outdoors to take part), internet access by satellite and an excellent masseuse who uses home produced organic essential oils. The house is actually located on a large private conservancy called Borana. Borana has been the home of the Dyer family since the 1920’s.

Having originally started the area as a cattle concern they all but hunted out the animals in the early days, as was typical for the era. In the last twenty years they have turned their energy to conservation. They have a thriving predator population, copious herds of elephant and a plethora of plains game and smaller beasts. The game viewing in this region really is exceptional and we have gone out each day to observe it both in custom built safari vehicles and on foot. We also spent time on a string of home reared ponies to explore the bush. Our host and guide for our explorations was Rose Dyer, and she is tough as a boot!The wildlife we have seen is remarkable! Everyone has particularly loved the horses and how much you feel a part of the life around you when you are exploring on them.
One of the really magical qualities of Borana is that the ranch is an accredited member of the Eco Tourism Society of Kenya, is certified organic and it plays an extremely active role in regional conservation. Michael Dyer, the oldest son, spends much of his time working with community development initiatives on health, education and environmental initiatives. All retained revenue from Laragai goes directly back to conservation and community development.

Laragai has been the ideal place to base ourselves for the past two days. It is the perfect luxurious home base from which to venture off and see this magnificent part of Kenya.

To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North if you are interested in traveling to Africa.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Day 1: Ngong House, Nairobi

The "Safari Six" are a group of Brownell Travel Advisors who are making their way across Kenya over the next two weeks. Read on for a journal of their adventures each day!
We made it! When we finaly arrived at the Jomo Kenyatta Airport, staff were waiting to meet us at customs, and led us straight to a vehicle for a short journey to the Ngong House.

Ngong House is a rather mad, eccentric hotel and the brainchild of our good friends the Verleysens. The rooms are set high on stilts and are constructed out of the salvaged wood from coastal dhow sailing boats. They all command fabulous views of the Ngong Hills, the hills that made famous by Karen Blixen’s book, “Out of Africa”.

It is an ideal place to spend the night before our early morning flight up in to the bush. We have already enjoyed a fabulous supper and cant wait to climb into the large comfortable beds! Stay tuned for more to come in a day or two. Next we are headed to the Laikipia region of Kenya.

To learn more about the travel advisors at Brownell, click here. Contact Meg North if you are interested in traveling to Africa.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

African Adventure with the "Safari Six"

“A stones throw out on either hand
From that well ordered path we tread
And all the world is wild and strange.”
Rudyard Kipling
Six of Brownell’s plucky (some might say “wild”) travel advisors have gained entrée into Kenya for a 14-day African adventure that breaks the regular safari mold. Their adventure will give them intimate and privileged access to the culture, wildlife and extreme geography of Kenya that the majority of travellers to this region never see. Stay tuned for a day-by-day account of the adventures (and misadventures) of “The Safari Six” as they uncover the treasures and unbelievable experiences that Kenya has to offer. They leave this Thursday and will be sending us updates as soon as they arrive!

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Dog Heaven at the Ritz Washington, D.C.

Caroline Wallace is a luxury travel advisor for Sterling Brownell. She has recently spent a night in the Ritz-Carlton in Washington, D.C. Read below about the Ritz and the VIP treatment for her dog, Ripple!

We recently had a short stay at the Ritz Washington and took our little daschund, Ripple. The Ritz does not charge for dogs (of any size) and certainly makes them quite welcome. Ripple was greeted by name when we arrived, had a doggie bed and food/water dish in the room upon arrival, and was later delivered a special bag of treats. They sent him a few small bones, a brass RITZ CARLTON bone shaped key chain and a sign that said WOOF with the RC logo. Too cute!
I had the pleasure of having a site inspection with Astrid de Lima, the travel industry sales manager, who is just delightful. She came in to meet me on her day off which was so nice.

I was so impressed with all the updates at this property as it had been years since I had stayed there. They have had a complete renovation of Presidential and Ritz-Carlton Luxury Suites. The Club Lounge has 2 computers for use with a printer and free wireless on this floor. Of course, the Club Lounge has its wonderful food and beverage displays through out the day, and I think we indulged in them all. The concierge was delightful and the décor is light and airy with a nice gas fireplace, which was great on a cold day. There is no TV in the lounge, which I liked.

The main lobby has a chic new bar and café and there is also the West End Bistro by Eric Rupert (3 star chef at NY’s Le Bernardin) is a lively place. The food is great and the service is good. It has a nice range of entrees on the menu and happening bar area.

All of the guest rooms have been renovated, as of August 2008, and the décor as mentioned above is clean, light, and has a more contemporary feel. There are about 300 rooms and suites. There is a great “bath” menu available for services even for children. The one bedroom suites (900 sq feet) have 1.5 bathrooms and a full pullout sofa bed. The deluxe rooms (450 sq feet) are very spacious.
If you are a fitness fanatic- this is the spot for you. LA SPORTS CLUB is connected to the hotel and is AMAZING. I remember working out here when I lived in DC and it has everything you could dream of. If you are staying on the CLUB FLOOR, access is free. Astrid says the salads and sandwiches are fresh and yummy, as is the juice bar, which has all been recently renovated. The Ritz tags this as their “3rd” restaurant. The club is designed to be your retreat for uninterrupted fitness, focused training, and dedicated service. Great fitness classes, lap pool, squash courts , full basketball court and endless amounts of machines and weights.

The Ritz is located on the upper part of Georgetown, at 22nd and M Streets, not far from the Park Hyatt, Fairmont and Four Seasons. It is the furthest of these from Georgetown but provides easy access to the Kennedy Center, downtown area, White House etc.

I am definitely adding this to my top picks for DC! Note that the Ritz Georgetown is a more boutique type property and it a great option if you are looking for something smaller with only 84 rooms. It is right next to Washington Harbor which offers nice views from the bedrooms of the Potomac River, and it is more in the “heart” of Georgetown.
To learn more about the Ritz Washington, and the special amenties you can recieve when you book through Sterling Brownell, contact Caroline by clicking here: Caroline Wallace, luxury travel advisor.