Debbie Fairvalley is a travel expert for Sterling Brownell. She spent some time this summer on a fabulous Windstar cruise. Read all about it below!
Author & Chef David Shalleck painted such a vibrant and colorful picture of the islands off the Italian coast in his wonderful book A Mediterranean Summer, I just had to visit them. If you love food, rich histories, charming villages, beautiful crystal clear waters, and sailing under beautiful sunsets, then this Windstar cruise is for you!
My journey began in Rome. Having never visited Rome before, I was in awe of the sheer beauty of this wonderful place. To watch the Coliseum develop like a painting at different times of the day (from bright light to intense rusts and purples as the sun set, to magically being illuminated by moonlight) was one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen. Rome (and Italy for that matter) is a city for the senses! The colors, the tastes, the smells, the sounds, & “oh” the romance…..it has just surpassed Paris as my favorite city!
I stayed at the Hotel Majestic. I felt so “at home” here, on this tree lined street only a short walk from the Spanish Steps. I felt as though I was staying with friends overlooking the Villa Borghese gardens. I thoroughly enjoyed having my cappuccino every morning on the pristine terrace being attended to by a staff whose sole aim is to make you feel cared for and welcome. My room was exactly what I pictured a Roman villa should look like, from the high gloss white walls and ceilings to the cool marble bathroom. Flinging open my huge window I could truly feel “La Dolce Vita” . The hallways are decorated with black & white photos of Fellini’s Rome and stars from the 50’s & 60’s. It provided a calm respite from the tourists flocking into the city for the July sales. Everything in Rome was “on sale”! I intend to make another journey next year at the same time with my 16 year old and shop all day – every day! In my short time I did happen to do some damage at La Furla (a VERY Italian leather store…) at the base of the Spanish Steps.
Touring Rome was pure joy! A private guide at the Vatican pointed out all the nuances of the Sistine Chapel, the art, and St. Paul’s Basilica. He was an art major and spoke fluent English! Not to mention quite cute and charming…..I wouldn’t do the Vatican without a private guide. He not only knows how to get you in without standing in line, but cuts through all the expanse of overwhelming art and antiquity to focus your time on what is truly a highlight. I would have missed the little corner of the Sistine Chapel left as it was found decades ago as a comparison to the newly restored works had it not been for Geno. Nor would I have discovered one of the best restaurants in the Jewish Grotto without his recommendation. I had no idea artichokes could be prepared so many ways or taste so delectable in every dish!
Walking every neighborhood stalking the best gelato place proved another success story with the discovery of Gelato Della Palma near the Pantheon! In 365 days you could barely sample every flavor. I have never seen (or tasted) such a decadent ice cream shop…..Well worth the tired feet and exploration.
I dropped a coin in the Trevi Fountain to assure my return and made my way to Civitavecchia (the port) to board my home for the next 8 days – the Wind Surf II.
This 312 passenger sailing vessel is THE way to sail the Med! There is nothing more authentic than sitting on the deck in the evening under a moonlit sky hearing and seeing the white sails float in the breeze. You get a small feeling of what the pirates and sailors of yesterday must have felt – it is truly invigorating!
My cabin was quite spacious with a newly refurbished bathroom and granite counter tops. Flat screen TV’s, L’Occitane amenities, Bose Ipod speakers, and luxury bed linen made the room comfortable for extended stays – too bad I only had 1 week…..
The predominately Thai & Filipino crew knows something about service and anticipating a person’s needs. They were gracious, thoughtful, and offered some of the best massages I have ever had. Dining options are numerous and offer an opportunity to dine al fresco at 2 different venues. I specifically selected a night we were in Sardinia (knowing we would be anchored at sea) to provide the best views of the coast at sunset to dine under the stars! The filet mignon wasn’t bad either…..Watching the lights come on in the harbor was as pretty as watching the many sunsets we saw from land.
The food is good, not great….But the atmosphere makes up for what the food might be lacking!Since we were in port many evenings – it was nice to have the option of dining in the local restaurants and taverns. Visiting 3 different countries made for some wonderful food experiences.
Our itinerary included the ports of Elba, Sardinia, Corsica, Mallorca, & Menorca. These less “touristy” islands were a perfect backdrop for a more authentic experience.
Elba is located off the Tuscany coast and produces some wonderful wine! Once on the island I understand why Napoleon made his home here….The scenery features rugged pink granite cliffs and small private coves where beachcombers can be truly undisturbed. The wonderful caccuicco (fish soup) is an island delicacy and pairs well with the Procancio (local wine of Elba). I took a quaint little catamaran trip on the M/N Nautilus (complete with underwater viewing) to see the great diving and snorkeling areas around Elba. They are accessible only by boat and offer wonderful reefs with many varieties of fish. This is as close to deep sea diving that I want to get! This archipelago toscano features the largest Marine Park in the Mediterranean, so actual divers and snorkelers would be most happy here.
We sailed into Portoferraio (a bit larger and more shopping/nightlife) but I believe the “rich and famous” sail into Porto Azzurro (approximately a 25 minute drive from Portoferraio) on their private yachts and sailboats. This quaint fishing village features some of the best beaches on the island and shouldn’t be missed!
9:30 pm and we are off to France! Our next island is Corsica and the port of Porto Vecchio….This “island of beauty” is full of different landscapes. It has it all from granite mountaintops to crystal clear blue beaches (and very French in flavor and fashion). You must take the 45 minute drive to Bonifacio and take in the vistas from the Citadel this is the Gibraltar of the Mediterranean! But be sure you have arranged for a driver – cabs are scarce on this little piece of paradise and those that did not have a prearranged “ride” were not able to hire a cab. I loved this island and would return here for a full summer (if time or life permitted..) The food (cheese & wine shops) were exquisite. And no one should come home without a true Corsican knife - these beautiful hand crafted knives are famous around the world for their detail as well as their functionality. My husband (an avid hunter & fisherman) was thrilled!
This island “rocks”! The nightlife doesn’t really get started until late in the evening and the clubs have the “beautiful” people dancing until the wee hours of the morning – this is really the place to see and be seen among the jet set crowd.
Ah, Sardinia! Our third stop on this sail was a “quest for coral”! I truly shopped until I dropped looking for the most spectacular coral necklace I could find. This coral capital features some of the most beautiful pieces of jewelery and decorative art I have ever seen. My quest did produce a lovely piece I have gotten many compliments on since I have been home. There is a quaint little train that meets you at the dock (we tendered, so our little boats ran constantly every 20 minutes or so) and takes you on a 25 minute ride through the old town. This was a great way to get an overview and decide where you wanted to actually “land”. Also gave you an opportunity to scope out your spot for lunch. There is a pecorino cheese produced here that is to “die for”….I managed to stuff some of this in my suitcase and now delight my “foodies” in Atlanta on occasion.
After lunch, I felt like an adventure so I took in Neptune’s Caves or Grotto de Nettuno as the Sardinians call it. And what an adventure it was! Just positioning our little boat into the opening of a cave as the waves crashed us from side to side was bad enough – but then having to “walk the plank” over these same crashing waves into the cave itself – proved a bit much for some of those who didn’t have their sea legs well in tact. The caves were beautiful but less impressive than watching the passengers try to navigate the whole embarkation or disembarkation experience. Not sure this one would make US safety standards.
It was back to the ship at sunset to get ready for my dinner under the stars @ 9pm! You could faintly hear the music from the taverns in the port and while the sky went from blue to orange to purple and the night stars came out – I feasted on a delicious 6 course meal al fresco on the deck of the Wind Surf II. So this is what “experiential travel” is all about???? WOW is all I can say.
Day 4 at sea gave me an opportunity to “spoil” myself with exercise (yoga classes), golf putting tournament, blackjack tournament, and a blissful Thai massage that is one of the best I have ever had. Finish this off with a manicure and pedicure and my day is complete. I debated room service, but decided to mingle with others at Degrees (a small dining area featuring Asian fusion cuisine) tonight.
8:00 am Welcome to Spain! Arrival into Palma Mallorca was less than majestic! This bustling port of 300,000 residents proved to me the best way to see Mallorca was to get out of Palma. Within 15 minutes of leaving the city in my private car (headed for Deja) I found the beautiful Mallorca. This hilltop tour past Valldemossa (where Chopin lived and composed) took us on the “Path of the Archduke”. Many people hike this – I was in an air conditioned Mercedes – my preference! With each turn in the road the scenery became more spectacular. From the domed cathedrals to the hilltop monasteries, these stone buildings take your breath away!
Upon arrival in Deja (an artist colony on the northwest coast of Mallorca) I understood why so many celebrities have homes here. The contrast of the stone buildings with the red bouganvilla and the blue sea vistas produced some of the most memorable photos of the trip. Deja is a city dating back to prehistoric times. There are many natural springs. Olive production is taken very seriously in Deja and everyone produces their own oil (from century old family recipes). I must have sampled at least 10 varieties, all exceptional!
The secret “gem” of this area is La Residencia (an Orient Express hotel) tucked into the hillside village of Deja. If I ever decide to take a second honeymoon this would be the spot! I would stay in Suite 66 (complete with private pool and wonderful outdoor patio), light a fire every evening, sip champagne overlooking the Tramuntana mountains at sunset, and order room service every day! I might be coaxed out of my room occasionally to experience the fabulous spa (a few short steps below me…).
I had a delightful lunch ( 2 ½ hours long) the way lunch should be experienced….of local tapas, fresh fish, and wonderful local wine in Son Fony at the hotel. This outdoor dining area provides wonderful views of the beautiful landscaped grounds of La Residencia and the village of Deja across the street. “ Magical” is the best word to describe this wonderful villa of La Residencia.
After an entire day spent in Deja I regret I must return to the busy port of Palma. But the Wind Surf II awaits……
Early to bed tonight in order to awake early enough to see our arrival into the harbor of Mahon, Spain. This is the most spectacular harbor we visit on our 8 day journey. We enter Mahon at 7:00 am to the rich colors of a sun just beginning to peek through the morning sky. This made for great photography! Menorca is a quiet little island (completing the 3 Spanish Mediterranean islands of Mallorca, Menorca, and Ibiza). It offers some of the best beaches anywhere – and most secluded. This island also features some remnants of windmills (making it look a bit more “Greek” to me). The whitewashed buildings surrounding the port offer great tapas and wonderful “people watching” spots. I found great shopping here for anything “nautical”. Mahon caters to private sailing yachts and being a Saturday, it seemed as though everyone was “at sea”.
No trip to Menorca would be complete without a visit to see the black Menorcan horses that “dance” in the streets during the jaleo festivals. They actually dance on their hind legs to the music played by the brass bands. These fiestas are celebrated every June to September throughout the summer in Menorca. If you are an equestrian, this island is for you!
A perfect ending to the day offered me a chance to reflect on a wonderful week at sea by enjoying an afternoon cocktail on the beach at Cala Turqueta. This quiet cove with crystal clear water helped me wind down and take it all in! What a wonderful experience….
The final night on the ship was one of fun and revelry! The ship’s crew put on a wonderful “show” for us allowing us to see they had more talent than just the ability to make us all feel special. We said our goodnights and good-byes to a wonderful trip and hoping we would all reconnect down the road on future Windstar sailings – “where are we sailing next? Greece, the Orient, the Caribbean…. all I know is I will certainly do this again!
Contact Debbie to learn more about cruising in the Med!
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